Deauville and Trouville-sur-Mer
At the end of October 2025, as autumn slowly sets in, the weather remains surprisingly mild: generous sunshine and an unexpected mildness that make us want to escape. So we decided to take advantage of this bright interlude to breathe in the salty sea air.
Head to Normandy, less than two and a half hours from Paris, and more precisely Deauville and Trouville-sur-Mer, two legendary seaside resorts separated by the Touques River. Deauville, often nicknamed “the 21st arrondissement of Paris,” attracts Parisians every weekend in search of elegance and the seaside. Its iconic boardwalk, Belle Époque villas, and chic yet relaxed atmosphere make it an ideal destination for an autumn getaway.
Vaïka, dressed in her finest yellow raincoat, made the most of the day, happily sprinting along the beach, her greatest passion. As for us humans, we savored another pleasure: that of fine Normandy cuisine, around a superb seafood platter.
Summary
A dog friendly
destination?
A dog friendly
destination?
Cargo biking
with a puppy
Cargo biking
with a puppy
Deauville: a dog-friendly destination?
Absolutely! We were pleasantly surprised by the welcome given to dogs in both Deauville and Trouville. The beach is accessible without a leash, except on the boards and the promenade, which is completely understandable.
And what a beach! Huge, wide, and sandy, it offers an ideal playground for a greyhound like Vaïka, who was able to run at full speed in complete freedom. Around us, many other dogs, small and large, shared the sand with families and walkers in a peaceful and caring atmosphere.
The free poop bags available in both cities are a real plus, as are the water bowls in several downtown restaurants, where dogs are welcomed with a smile.
This experience was radically different from that of the Pink Granite Coast in Brittany, where access to beaches and establishments was much more complicated.
Here in Deauville, it's a different story: everything is designed to ensure that owners and dogs have a pleasant time together. Even during the summer, special hours allow dogs to enjoy the beach before 10 a.m. and after 7 p.m.—a fine example of respectful and intelligent coexistence.
Itinerary
There are two main ways to reach Deauville from Paris. The first, and more relaxing, is by train from Gare Saint-Lazare: in approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes, you arrive directly at Deauville-Trouville station, ideally located just a few minutes' walk from the center, the beach, and the main attractions. Everything can then be easily reached on foot, making it a very convenient option.
For our part, we chose the car option, mainly for the flexibility of the schedule. We didn't yet know how long we would be there, as November weather is often unpredictable: a radiant morning can quickly give way to a sudden downpour. We had also seen that rain was likely to fall in the afternoon, and wanted to keep the option of returning earlier if necessary.
The journey, via the A13 motorway, takes just under 2.5 hours. However, be aware that tolls are now automatic: it is therefore important to pay your bill online on the SANEF website within 72 hours, or you will be charged a surcharge. In 2025, we paid €38.10 return, a very reasonable price for this Normandy getaway. The route is pleasant, punctuated by several motorway service areas for a coffee break (or a dog walk!). The only caveat: a bit of a rush at the exit and entrance to Paris, but nothing unusual for Normandy weekends.
Deauville and its beach
We parked in the parking lot directly across from Deauville's main beach, a perfect place to start the day. The town has plenty of parking, presumably to accommodate the summer crowds, making it very convenient to visit in the off-season. After a stroll along the legendary boardwalk, reading the names of great cinema figures engraved on the cabins, we discovered a photography exhibition set up right on the beach—a nice artistic touch that added to the charm of the place.
Then came the moment Vaïka had been waiting for: freedom on the sand. The wind was blowing hard that day, but her yellow cere protected her perfectly. She took off at full speed, making large circles around us, without ever straying too far. I was delighted to see her progress with recall: she was no longer distracted like before, even though she had some wonderful canine encounters along the way, always in a good mood. She also had a lot of fun with her KONG Frisbee, her new passion—a toy we highly recommend to all dog owners!
The beach was clean, with no seaweed, just a few shells that she enjoyed sniffing before sprinting off again. After this wonderful moment of freedom, we continued our stroll through the villa district to admire the superb, perfectly maintained period houses in the typical Norman style. Then, we headed to nearby Trouville, where the market was held. We parked near the casino before strolling through the lively little streets, buying a few cans of sardines, and finally sitting down at a fishmonger's restaurant to enjoy seafood in a friendly atmosphere.
Lunch at a fish market
For lunch, we wanted to fully enjoy the local specialties, and our choice naturally fell on one of the fishmonger-restaurants on the Trouville promenade, where the stalls are overflowing with ultra-fresh seafood. The concept is simple: you choose what you want to eat, and the fishmongers take care of preparing it on the spot. So we opted for a gourmet platter: crab claws, shrimp, oysters, and delicious langoustines seared in butter and garlic—a real treat! All accompanied by a glass of chilled Sancerre: pure bliss.
We were greeted with a smile by a team of funny and friendly fishmongers, delighted to welcome humans and dogs alike. Vaïka was given her own bowl of water and we were able to unfold her little portable mat to make herself comfortable. We particularly appreciated the high tables, perfect for keeping her curious nose from reaching plate height! She politely declined the small piece of shrimp we offered her, preferring her usual box, before lying down peacefully at our feet.
The atmosphere was warm and friendly, with charming table neighbors and two other dogs present, in beautiful harmony. It's a pleasure to rediscover this simple and joyful way of life, where everyone enjoys the moment.
We therefore warmly recommend “La Plume des Mers” , both for the quality of the food and for the exemplary dog-friendly welcome. An address to remember without hesitation for a successful lunch in Trouville!
To end on a sweet note, we indulged in a crepe from an adjacent kiosk... but we were very disappointed: industrial crepe, not homemade, and €6 each! Needless to say, the price-quality ratio was not up to scratch - avoid if you're looking for a real artisanal crepe.
