May 2025
Vaika in Quebec
A long flight over the Atlantic, crossing several time zones, and here we are in Quebec for a breathtaking first experience. On the agenda: explorations of old Quebec City and vibrant Montreal, immersion in breathtaking national parks, and even a first seaplane adventure! Not to mention the unexpected encounter with the little Canadian squirrels. It was a memorable trip, and we're taking you with us on this unforgettable getaway.
Summary
A dog-friendly destination?
Amsterdam
Amsterdam
Our itinerary
Keukenhof, Zaandvoort and Haarlem
Amsterdam
Our accommodations
Zaanse Schans and Volendam
Amsterdam
Quebec: A “Dog-Friendly” Destination?
One of the most enjoyable aspects of our stay in Quebec was realizing how dog-friendly the province is. Whether in big cities like Montreal or Quebec City, or in more remote areas, we never encountered a negative reaction toward Vaika. On the contrary, she was often welcomed with kindness, sometimes even with a little pat or a kind word.
In Montreal, there are many dog-friendly parks, and dog parks (fenced areas where dogs can run free) are plentiful—Paris should definitely take a leaf out of their book! The dog density seems lower than in France, but it must be said that the human density is also lower, which makes for more peaceful walks.
On the nature side, you should still do your research before entering the national parks, because some trails are prohibited to dogs for reasons of fauna and flora preservation. For example, in the Mauricie Park, where bears live in the wild, it's easy to understand the restrictions... and we weren't unhappy not to encounter one on the path with Vaika!
Another peculiarity to note: squirrels are omnipresent, including in the city. With a greyhound like Vaika, this makes walking on the loose a lot more complicated—we weren't able to let her off the leash once during our entire trip. Despite this, Quebec remains a very accessible and pleasant destination with a dog, provided you plan ahead and adapt to the local wildlife.
Our one-week itinerary in Quebec
We went away for a week in early May 2025, taking advantage of the public holidays on May 1st and 8th. It's the shoulder season in Canada: there's no more snow, the temperatures are starting to warm up, but it's not summer either.
It's important to know that many national parks remain closed at this time of year due to the snow melting: some trails, however, remain accessible. The advantage is that admission is therefore free. Another advantage we noticed is the total absence of mosquitoes. However, we heard that mosquitoes are very prevalent in the summer at the edge of the lakes.
One week seemed like enough time to enjoy and explore several different places. Of course, choices will have to be made in this time, and it won't be possible to visit all of Quebec! Two weeks would have been more comfortable, and we recommend this length of stay if you have the option.
DAY 1: Arrival in Montreal at 12 p.m., car collection, drive to accommodation and city tour
DAY 2: Montreal
DAY 3: Mauricie Park
DAY 4: Mauricie National Park and seaplane flight
DAY 5: Saguenay Fjord: South Shore
DAY 6: Saguenay Fjord: North Shore
DAY 7: Quebec City and Montmorency Falls
DAY 8: Three Rivers and return flight to Paris (5 p.m.)
Our accommodations
Since Vaika is fed on home-cooked food, choosing an Airbnb is the most convenient way to cook and enjoy accommodation with more space than a hotel room.
Airbnb offers accommodations for every budget. We opted for quite a variety of houses and apartments during our stay to fully enjoy the diverse aspects of Quebec: from an apartment in downtown Montreal to a small cabin by the lake.
Budget
This is for guidance only and corresponds to 2025 prices.
Montreal : €313 for 2 nights.
A beautiful apartment in a building with many other Airbnbs. Clean and functional. There's a small café on the ground floor of the building, making it convenient for breakfast.
Saint Mathieu du Parc : €480 for 2 nights.
Our absolute favorite part of the stay. A magnificent chalet on the shores of Lake Jackson. Beautiful, chic interior with a beautiful sleeping area upstairs. A beautiful terrace with a barbecue and canoes available.
Saguenay : €243 for 2 nights.
A beautifully renovated house in a residential area of Saguenay. It offers all the comforts, including washing machines, high-quality amenities, and parking.
Quebec : €164 for 1 night.
Apartment in a residence entirely dedicated to temporary accommodation. We do not recommend this accommodation at all given the very shady neighborhood: drug addicts at the bottom of the building, building entrance with hundreds of key boxes. Truly a bad choice. No parking, but we were able to park in a public parking lot a few meters away (not safe given the people hanging around).
Montreal
Day One: Downtown, Port of Montreal, Chinatown, Quartier des Spectacles and Little France
Arriving in Montreal at midday, we were lucky enough to make the most of our first day thanks to the jet lag. A great plan if you're leaving from Paris: taking an early flight allows you to "gain" a day upon arrival! We took the time to settle into our ideally located accommodation in the city center, a stone's throw from the majestic Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal (which, unlike many religious buildings, is not open to dogs). This allowed us to explore the city on foot, a true immersion into the heart of Montreal's soul.
In the afternoon, we headed to the Old Port of Montreal, where ancient stones tell the story of this port city. The atmosphere, blending past and modernity, is fascinating. We then explored Chinatown, with its colorful streets and fragrant stalls. It's a real change of scenery, a little corner of Beijing in the heart of the metropolis.
Continuing our stroll, we headed for the Quartier des Spectacles, a true hub of Montreal culture. With its large pedestrian streets, concert halls, and theaters, this area is an invitation to creativity. Next, we were captivated by Place d'Armes and its magnificent historic buildings, before losing ourselves in the famous Sainte-Catherine Street, bustling with shops, restaurants, and cafes.
But the highlight of the day? Petite France. This charming neighborhood, with its small cobblestone streets and buildings with typical architecture, reminded us a little of Europe, while being firmly rooted in Montreal culture. It was there that we made a gourmet stop at Schwartz, a city institution. This legendary little restaurant, renowned for its smoked meats, treated us to an incredibly tender and flavorful pastrami sandwich. The place is simple and authentic, but the warm atmosphere and delicious food make it a must-try for any visit to Montreal. We were able to enjoy our sandwich on a bench, and Vaika devoured her meal prepared in a box.
A busy day, then, with lots of walking and exploring, and for Vaika, a first glimpse of American streets: wide avenues, modern buildings, but also that incredible mix of tradition and modernity that characterizes Montreal so well. A successful first immersion!
Second day: Mount Royal, Jean Talon Market, Atwater
On the second day, we decided to head up to Mount Royal. It's the highest point in the city, offering a breathtaking panoramic view of Montreal. The sun wasn't shining, and a few drops of rain fell here and there, but we still took the time to admire the city stretching out below us. A moment of calm and contemplation, ideal for recharging our batteries. But that wasn't all: after enjoying the view, we decided to take a short urban hike in the woods of Mount Royal Hill. The place is a true natural setting in the heart of the city, with its shaded trails and lush vegetation.
That's when Vaika had an unforgettable encounter... with squirrels! These mischievous little creatures completely captivated her attention. It was impossible to let her off the leash: as soon as she saw one, it was on, and there was no question of calming her down! Squirrels really do have this mysterious power to awaken the hunting instinct of greyhounds, and I must say that I now understand the many posts from Americans about their greyhounds and squirrels. It was as if Vaika had pressed a "predator instinct" button: a real fury in search of its prey! So we had to be extra vigilant to prevent her from taking off at full speed. A slightly stressful experience, but so much fun to watch!
After this somewhat "sporty" adventure for Vaika, we headed back down Mount Royal and headed to the Jean-Talon Market, one of the city's most famous. This market is a true feast for the senses, with its colorful stalls filled with fresh produce, local specialties, and delicious treats. We took a well-deserved break on the terrace, enjoying a coffee while observing the simple and pleasant Montreal life.
In the afternoon, we headed to the Atwater neighborhood, where some friends live. This charming neighborhood offers the opportunity to stroll along the canal or through its small residential streets. It reminded us a bit of the neighborhood along the Canal Saint Martin in Paris. We spent the rest of the evening chatting and relaxing. Vaika, exhausted by all these emotions and discoveries, found her little corner of paradise on our friends' super comfortable sofa, a perfect place to rest after a busy day.
Mauricie Park: hiking and seaplane flight
After our visit to Montreal, we headed to Parc de la Mauricie for a little get-back-to-nature experience, with a beautiful outdoor program: hiking in the forest and a seaplane flight. However, as soon as we arrived, reality caught up with us... The park is officially closed at this time of year, so we had to be resourceful to get out. Indeed, the park only opens its doors from mid-to-late May, and since there were no information posts open, we had to find our way. We first got lost while taking a national hiking trail...
You should know that there are two main entrances to the park: the Saint-Mathieu-du-Parc entrance, which was closed, and the Saint-Jean-des-Piles entrance, where we were finally able to go to start our hike. Here again, we went to the wrong parking lot (there was still a clue because no cars except ours were parked there). A few kilometers further, very close to the campsite, we finally found the start of the hikes and we opted for the Lac Solitaire trail , a loop that crosses a regenerating forest, following a prescribed burn. This trail is relatively easy to walk, with a few climbs and descents, but nothing too difficult. Along the way, interpretive panels helped us better understand how fire, often misunderstood, can actually contribute to forest regeneration. A great opportunity to take a break and catch our breath while learning interesting things.
The peaceful, unspoiled landscape was perfect for Vaika, who was able to stretch her legs after a long drive, always on a leash because of the squirrels! The hike took a little longer than expected because of our search for the right route, but once on the trail, we savored every moment in this wild nature.
After a good night's sleep in our beautiful cabin on the shores of Jackson Lake, the next day it was time for the big moment: our seaplane flight! A unique experience for all of us, especially for Vaika, who had never flown in a seaplane. The flight over the park's lakes and forests was breathtaking, a breathtaking view of Canadian nature. A magical moment and a great complement to our forest adventure!
We highly recommend the service provider we flew with: Hydravion Quebec. They accept dogs on board (even large ones like Vaika). The pilot was exceptionally kind; he himself had a Retriever that he had been flying in his aircraft since he was a puppy. There are several flight durations available; we opted for the 30-minute option, which starts at Lac à la Tortue. It's short, but it's a good amount of time to get a nice overview of the park and get some interesting explanations. The takeoff and landing are exceptionally quiet: everything is done smoothly on the water, you don't feel a thing. However, for next time, we'll remember to take ear protection for Vaika: the flight is very noisy; we're not in a soundproof cabin. Vaika seemed particularly alert during the flight, whereas in a conventional airliner, she doesn't even realize she's flying. I could see from her expression that she didn't understand what was happening: "Mom, we're taking off from the earth, we're flying like a bird!" A different experience for our little scaredy-cat.
Saguenay Fjord
The Saguenay Fjord is a breathtaking place where nature reigns supreme. This deep and majestic glacial fjord is one of the most beautiful in the world, a true haven of wilderness, surrounded by mountains and lined with picturesque villages. Its calm yet wild atmosphere offered us a timeless escape, perfect for a memorable road trip.
We had originally planned to hike the famous statue trail , a must-see in the Saguenay Fjord National Park. Unfortunately, when we arrived, the snow was still lingering on the trails, and the hike was still impassable. Rather than let this discourage us, we opted to explore Sainte-Marguerite Bay, a peaceful and beautiful place, perfect for a little exploration on foot.
We began by exploring the south shore of the fjord, where we made numerous stops to admire the spectacular panoramas. The route allowed us to navigate through breathtaking landscapes, with mountains plunging directly into the fjord and forests as far as the eye could see. With each turn of the road, we discovered a new facet of this wild and unspoiled region. We were able to enjoy the landscapes of Anse Saint Jean but also the Petit Saguenay wharf where we took a well-deserved break with a good drink.
The next day, we headed to the north shore to discover more breathtaking viewpoints and even more charming villages. Each village we passed through seemed like a true gem, some being ranked among the most beautiful in Quebec, like the adorable village of Sainte-Rose-du-Nord . Its small, colorful houses and enchanting setting made us feel like we were transported to another time, far from the hustle and bustle of the modern world. We also took advantage of the clearing skies to take the Sentier de la Plateforme . By following this short 3 km path, you will reach a very pretty lookout overlooking Sainte-Rose-du-Nord as well as the Saguenay Fjord and the surrounding mountains.
Along the way, we made sure to enjoy the local specialties. In one of the small villages, we made a gourmet stop at a bakery and an artisanal cheese shop. The products were incredibly delicious, and the cheese, frankly, was just as good as any in France! The taste was rich and refined, a true delight for our taste buds. We bought some food for the rest of our trip, and every bite was pure bliss.
These two days at the fjord were a pure delight for the eyes and the heart, a beautiful immersion in the nature and flavors of Quebec. Between magnificent landscapes and small local discoveries, this adventure will remain one of the highlights of our trip.
Quebec City and Montmorency Falls
During our visit to Quebec City, we chose to dedicate half a day to exploring the city through a guided tour. This format, ideal for maximizing our time, allowed us to explore the main attractions of this iconic city. Quebec City, with its European charm, cobblestone streets, and UNESCO World Heritage-listed fortifications, exudes a unique atmosphere in North America. Between history, culture, and breathtaking views of the St. Lawrence River, it instantly captivates.
After this urban immersion, we continued our adventure by admiring the impressive Montmorency Falls. We took the cable car to the summit and enjoyed a brief stint on the suspended walkway just before the site closed. The powerful flow of the falls, higher than Niagara Falls, was breathtaking... and slightly terrifying for Vaika, our intrepid but sometimes fearful Greyhound!
Huron Wendat and Borealis Museums
For our last day in Quebec, in rainy weather, we traded the forests and nature for a cultural immersion, before catching our 5 p.m. flight from Montreal.
Our first stop took us to the Huron-Wendat Museum , located in Wendake, an Indigenous community near Quebec City. This fascinating museum offers insight into the history, traditions, and lifestyle of the Huron-Wendat people, one of Canada's first Indigenous peoples. We were particularly impressed by the life-size traditional hut, a striking and immersive space that recreates the community habitat as it once existed—a true journey through time into the heart of Indigenous cultures.
On the way to Montreal, we then made a stop in Trois-Rivières to visit the Boréalis Museum, another favorite. Housed in a former water filtration plant, this museum traces the history of the paper industry in Quebec, highlighting the workers, the "lumberjacks" and the entire world of woodworking. Between the old machines, the archives, the smell of resin and the immersive scenography, we discovered a little-known but fascinating part of Quebec's heritage. A great way to conclude our stay, connecting nature, history and collective memory.
On the gastronomic side
During our stay in Quebec, the meal plan naturally adapted to Vaika's needs, as she eats exclusively home-cooked meals. This led us to go grocery shopping regularly, a habit that has the advantage of introducing us to local supermarkets. It's always an interesting experience, as it reveals a lot about consumer habits: product formats, prices, availability, etc. Contrary to what one might think, we didn't find the cost of living much higher than in Paris. The supermarkets are well-stocked, and we easily found what we needed to prepare Vaika's meals. It was even quite practical, as the portions are often generous—perfect for her, who eats more than a kilo of meat a day! Ground beef or boneless chicken thighs, her favorites, are easily found there. The only downside: canned green beans, which are rather rare, as we had already noticed in Finland.
Alongside home cooking, we also took a few gourmet breaks in cafés, whether for a drink or breakfast. Finally, we also occasionally picked up a takeaway meal and enjoyed it on a bench, a practical alternative since terraces, which are fewer in number than in France, are not always easy to access with a dog.
Curious to discover the local gastronomy, we indulged in a few must-try dishes. Topping the list: the famous poutine, this iconic dish made with crispy fries topped with gravy and melted cheese curds—a true comfort food, especially in cooler weather. We also tried blueberry pies (made with local blueberries), with their generous crust and slightly tangy fruit: a true delight. When it comes to cheese, Quebec also has some nice surprises in store, with a booming artisanal production, ranging from aged cheddar to distinctive soft cheeses. And then, of course, there's the inevitable world of maple sugar: maple taffy, candies, syrup, maple butter—a Quebec institution! While we were intrigued by this abundance of sweets, we must admit that it wasn't to our taste—much too sweet for us—but that's a matter of taste, and it's still an experience worth trying. In short, Quebec cuisine combines rustic traditions, local products and a good taste of the land, perfect to accompany a gourmet trip... or simply a curious one!
